Times Are Changing: The Impact on Fashion

Times are changing rapidly and unexpectedly. Societies shift as historic events unravel before the world’s eyes. As consumer needs evolve, fashion must keep pace, reflecting social and economic transformations.

Eighty-eight percent of consumers now want fashion that supports the environment. Awareness of the industry’s impact on climate change has increased, leading to a shift from fast fashion to sustainable fashion. Many in the industry claim to follow ethical and sustainable practices. If these claims hold true, the fashion industry could shed its reputation as one of the biggest polluters.

However, the gap between “preaching” and practicing remains evident to both consumers and industry insiders.

The Macedonian Fashion Industry

Textile Factories vs. Fashion Designers

In contrast to its heyday in the 1970s during socialist Yugoslavia, Macedonia’s textile industry is struggling. Garment production facilities in the country serve as alternatives to Asian cheap labor, relying on substantial orders from European brands. Over a thousand factories, many concentrated in Stip, operate under substandard conditions. Workers face unethical practices, including wages below the legal minimum. These factories also produce mass-market clothes for local stores, a minor portion of their annual revenue.

The global shift toward sustainability seems to bypass these factories entirely. Workers endure harsh conditions, and the industry remains largely untouched by ethical reforms.

In Skopje, a stark contrast emerges. The capital boasts a glamorous fashion scene dominated by wealthy womenswear designers. These designers often market their work as sustainable, but whether this reflects reality or serves as a marketing tool remains debatable.

Sustainability Challenges for Designers

Macedonian fashion designers typically operate on-demand business models with small-scale, handmade, or commission-based production. The local textile factories are ill-equipped to meet the high-end standards of these designers, limiting scalability.

The COVID-19 pandemic pushed many designers to produce mass-market clothes at lower price points to cater to changing lifestyles. Unfortunately, this shift often compromised their sustainability and ethical practices.

Sustainable Fashion Practices

Macedonian fashion designers, diverse in their aesthetics and business models, generally adhere to sustainable practices. They use dead-stock fabrics, limit production, and treat employees ethically. Brands like Ludus, which use 100% natural fabrics, set an example for others.

Efforts like Slowscapes, a showroom uniting sustainable Macedonian fashion and design, highlight the growing movement toward environmental responsibility.

Reviving Macedonian Craftsmanship

Macedonian designers could draw inspiration from the country’s crafts heritage. Traditional handcrafts, in decline since industrialization, could be transformed into high-end, contemporary products. Integrating local craftsmanship into fashion businesses offers unique, sustainable opportunities.

Hand-knitting, a waste-free and easily recyclable technique, represents another sustainable avenue. Few knitwear brands exist in North Macedonia, but designers could explore partnerships with local wool producers and skilled knitters.

Conclusion

The future of Macedonian fashion lies in blending sustainability with local heritage. Designers must embrace transparency, controlled production, and traditional techniques to build client trust.

At the same time, the onus of addressing sustainability issues should shift from small designers to mass-market clothing producers and wealthy Macedonian brands. Globally, luxury fashion groups and high-street brands must prioritize ethics and transparency over profits to prevent further environmental destruction.